On this page you will find helpful information designed to set you up for beekeeping success. In addition to covering the basics of seasonal management with The Keeper's Hive, a lot what is covered here is related to general beekeeping best practices. Our aim is to keep all our information as up to date as possible, so if you have any questions or feedback on what is written here please email us at hello@thekeepershive.com.

Part 1 - How To Get Started In Beekeeping

Educate Yourself!

Beekeeping can be a rewarding endeavor, but it requires careful preparation and a lot of learning. Below are some of the subjects you will need to investigate and become familiar with in order to become a successful beekeeper.

 

Understanding Bee Biology and Behavior 

The life cycle of honey bees: Learn about the different types of bees in a colony and the roles they play, such as the queen, workers, and drones. Understanding their life cycles will have a major impact on your ability to manage your colonies.

Honey bee communication: Bees use pheromones and something called the "waggle dance" to communicate about food sources. Understanding bee communication can give you insights into your colony's health.

Seasonal behavior: Bees' activities change with the seasons—you'll need to adapt your colony management accordingly.

 

Choosing the Right Equipment

Choosing the right beehive: There are many types of beehives in use all over the world – and we think all of them are awesome! – but the most popular beehive in use today is the Langstroth hive. By making some simple tweaks to the Langstroth design, The Keeper’s Hive allows beekeepers to access the brood chamber (the area that needs to be inspected at the bottom of the hive) without needing to lift a single box. This streamlines nearly every aspect of colony management, which you will come to appreciate after reading through these guides.

Bee suits and protective gear: Protecting yourself is essential when inspecting a hive. A full suit, gloves, and boots protect you maximally from stings. If you are not allergic and do not mind the occasional sting, you could also use a bee jacket or a veil to protect your face and be a little more comfortable when the weather is warm. It is important to learn how to read a colony during inspection and know when it is time to walk away, as a colony of angry bees can pose a real danger if they decide to attack.

Smokers and hive tools: A bee smoker is used to calm the bees as you inspect them. Hive tools are used to separate bee boxes and remove frames from the boxes. There are many different types of both, and a lot of it comes down to personal preference.

Frames and foundation: These provide the structure for bees to build comb on, and you will need to learn about installing and maintaining them. Frames and foundation come in different styles and materials, and while beekeepers all have their own preferences there are some aspects of both that can affect how the bees behave throughout the seasons and impact your success.

Honey extracting equipment: The best honey extracting method for you will depend on the number of colonies you manage and how much honey you have to harvest. Equipment ranges from very simple manual extraction to expensive automatic extraction lines. 

 

Beekeeping Legal Requirements

Local regulations: Most states require you to register your hives. Please also be aware of local regulations that may dictate how many hives you can keep on a single site and set back distances from property lines. Your local bee club will be able to help educate you about any regulations in your area.

Neighbors: Consider discussing your plans with neighbors, especially if you're in an urban or suburban area. Educate them about the benefits of bees and what you'll do to minimize their risks of getting stung.  Bees tend to like pool water so if your neighbor has a pool or hot tube be aware that this may create a problem in the future.   

 

Choosing Your Apiary Location

Access to food and water: Honey bees need a sufficient local supply of healthy nectar and pollen. Planting bee-friendly trees and flowers or having access to forest or wildflower areas will help. Make sure there is also a nearby water source.  Minimize use of pesticides and herbicides on your property and encourage others to do the same. If your apiary is in close proximity to a golf course, non-organic farmland, or other areas where pesticides are used you may face significant challenges keeping your colonies strong and healthy.

Sunlight and shelter: Try to choose a location that gets plenty of sunlight all day long but is also sheltered from strong winds. Ideally the hive should face south or southeast for maximum sun exposure, but if entrances need to face a different direction direct sunlight is the most important.

Choose somewhere free of disturbances: Place your hives away from high-traffic areas to avoid stressing the bees and reduce human interaction that might cause stings. Ideally you want your apiary somewhere relatively peaceful and quiet.

 

Developing Your Hive Management Skills

Colony inspections: Doing your first few inspections with an experience beekeeper will pay dividends, as there are many aspects of handling bees that are hard to learn without first hand experience. Assessing the  bees, brood, food and disease at every inspection will help you decide the management that your colonies needs to survive and thrive. 

Swarm prevention: Bees naturally want to swarm when the colony grows large, but you can prevent this through hive management techniques like doing the Demaree, splitting your colony or adding enough supers. Preventing swarming will result in less bees in your neighbors roofs and increase your colony’s honey production, 

Feeding: Sometimes, especially in early spring or late fall, bees need supplemental feeding (sugar water) if natural food is scarce.  

Overwintering: Learn how to prepare your bees for winter by reducing hive size, ensuring enough food storage, and possibly insulating the hive to help them survive cold months.

 

Bee Diseases and Pests

Varroa mites: A major threat to honeybees, the viruses that the mites spread can decimate colonies if their presence is not addressed. It is extremely important to learn to monitor and manage mites with chemical treatments or natural methods like drone brood trapping.

American foulbrood and European foulbrood: These bacterial diseases can destroy hives and may require drastic measures like burning the infected colony.

Nosema: A fungal infection that affects bee digestion. Management includes proper ventilation and possibly using medications.

Wax moths and small hive beetles: Both can damage the comb, so knowing how to manage pests is crucial.

 

Honey Harvesting

Timing: Harvesting honey is typically done in late summer or early fall. Make sure not to take too much and leave enough honey for the bees to survive winter.

Tools: You'll need an extractor, an uncapping knife, and a filter to process the honey. Also, familiarize yourself with proper storage methods.

Labeling and selling: If you plan to sell honey, learn the legal requirements for labeling, safety, and marketing.

 

Commitment and Time Management

Seasonal work: Beekeeping isn’t year-round work, but each season has specific demands. Spring and summer are the busiest, with hive inspections and honey collection. In fall, you prepare the hive for winter.

Routine checks: Expect to inspect your hives every 7-14 days during the warmer months, which involves opening the hive, checking the health of the colony, and making any necessary adjustments.

Learning curve: Beekeeping has a steep learning curve, so patience is key. You’ll make mistakes, but that’s part of the process.

 

Learning Resources and Mentorship

Books and online resources: There are many excellent books, blogs, and YouTube channels dedicated to beekeeping.

Local beekeeping associations: Joining a local beekeeping group can connect you with experienced beekeepers who can offer guidance and support.

Workshops and courses: Many universities and organizations offer beginner beekeeping courses that cover everything from equipment to bee biology.

 

Costs and Budgeting

Initial investment: Expect to spend over $1000 on equipment, bees, and gear in order to get started. Plan for these initial costs along with ongoing expenses for maintenance and treatments.

Time vs. money: Beekeeping can be as simple or complex as you make it. DIY projects like building hives or buying used equipment can save money but require more time upfront.

 

Environmental Impact and Sustainability

Supporting pollination: Beekeeping can contribute to local ecosystems by helping with plant and crop pollination.

Avoiding pesticides: If you or your neighbors use pesticides, they could harm your bees. Consider organic gardening practices and educate your community about bee-safe alternatives.

Equipment 

Starting backyard beekeeping requires specific tools and equipment to ensure the health of your bees and the safety of yourself and others. Here's a more detailed breakdown of the essential beekeeping equipment you'll need to get started:

 

Beehive

The hive is where your bees will live, build their combs, and store honey. The Keeper's Hive offers two types of hive: the One Queen Keeper and the Two Queen Keeper. 

 

Bee Suit and Protective Gear

Beekeeping can come with some stings, so protective clothing is essential for safety and confidence during hive inspections.

Full-body bee suit: Covers you from head to ankle, with elastic at the wrists and ankles to prevent bees from entering your clothing.

Jacket: Covers above your waist including your head.  

Veil: Protects your face and neck from stings, usually attached to the suit or available as a separate piece.

Gloves: Made of leather or thick material to prevent stings. Some beekeepers prefer working without gloves for better dexterity.

Boots: High boots with pants tucked into them to protect your legs from bees.

 

Smoker

The smoker is an essential tool for calming bees during hive inspections.

How it works: The smoke masks the bees' alarm pheromones and encourages them to move deeper into the hive.

Fuel: Use natural materials like pine needles, wood shavings, or dried leaves for smoke. Ensure the smoker is producing cool smoke, not hot smoke, to avoid harming the bees.

 

Hive Tool

A hive tool is indispensable for inspecting and maintaining the hive.

Purpose: Used to pry apart the hive boxes, scrape propolis (bee glue), and remove frames during inspections.

Standard hive tool: Flat, L-shaped tool.

J-hook hive tool: Has a hook for lifting frames more easily.

 

Bee Brush

Purpose: A soft-bristled brush used to gently move bees off frames or surfaces without harming them.

When to use: Useful during honey harvesting or if bees are crowding certain areas.

 

Queen Excluder

Purpose: A mesh placed between the brood box and the honey supers. It allows worker bees to pass through but keeps the queen in the brood area, preventing her from laying eggs in the honey storage area.

Material: Typically made of plastic or metal.

Both the One Queen Keeper and Two Queen Keeper use queen excluders year round, except for in Winter.

Feeder

Purpose: Feeds bees sugar syrup when nectar is scarce (especially in early spring or fall).

Entrance feeder: Sits at the hive entrance with a jar of syrup.

Top feeder: Placed at the top of the hive and holds larger quantities of syrup.

Frame feeder: Fits into the hive like a frame, holding syrup inside the hive.

 

Frames and Foundation

Frames: Removable wooden or plastic frames that fit inside the hive boxes. They hold the foundation or are used for bees to build their comb.

Foundation: A pre-formed sheet, often made of wax or plastic, that gives bees a guide to build straight comb. It is inserted into the frames.

Wax foundation: Natural option, but more fragile.

Plastic foundation: More durable but less natural.

 

Honey Extracting Equipment

Uncapping knife: A heated or serrated knife used to remove the wax cappings from honeycomb before extraction.

Extractor: A machine that spins frames to remove honey via centrifugal force. There are two main types:

Manual extractor: Hand-cranked, suitable for hobbyist beekeepers.

Electric extractor: Motorized, useful for larger operations.

Honey filter or strainer: Used to filter out wax particles, propolis, and other debris from the honey after extraction.

Honey storage containers: Food-grade containers for storing harvested honey, such as mason jars or buckets with honey gates.

 

Bee Tools for Inspection

Frame grip: A tool to help lift frames out of the hive, especially helpful for beginners.

Bee escape: A device that allows worker bees to leave a super but not return, making honey harvesting easier by reducing the number of bees in the honey boxes.

Quiet box: A box with a solid bottom and cover in which frames can be placed during an inspection. This keeps the removed bees calmer and reduces the chance that a queen will wander off into the grass.

 

Varroa Mite Management

Varroa mites are one of the biggest threats to honeybee colonies, so you’ll need tools to monitor and manage them.

Screened bottom board: Replaces the solid bottom board with a mesh screen so that mites fall below the screen, which can help remove some varroa mites naturally. They can also be used to monitor varroa kill after applying a miticide. 

Mite washer: A method for checking mite levels by putting them in 90% isopropyl alcohol or dusting bees with powdered sugar and counting mites that fall off.

Oxalic acid vaporizer: A device used to apply oxalic acid vapor to the hive to kill mites without harming the bees.

Miticides: organic and synthetic substances used to kill mites.

 

Swarm Control Equipment

Swarming occurs when a colony divides, and a portion leaves with a new queen. Some tools can help manage or prevent this.

Swarm traps: Placed in areas to catch swarms, providing a ready-made hive for bees to move into. Swarm traps are placed in trees about 6 feet off the ground facing south.  Often they are baited with a little lemongrass oil to encourage a swarm to move in. 

Nucleus box (nuc): A small hive box used for raising new colonies or capturing swarms. Nucs are also useful for hive splits.

 

Bee Health and Disease Management Tools

Fume board: A tool used to encourage bees to leave honey supers before harvesting, making the process easier. Fume boards are placed on top of the hive with a chemical that repels bees.

Medicinal treatments: Depending on the region and regulations, you may need to use treatments for diseases like American foulbrood or pests like varroa mites.

 

Miscellaneous Tools

Marker pen: Used to mark the queen to make it easier to spot her during inspections.  There are different colors which correspond to the year the queen was born. 

Queen cage: Used to transport or temporarily isolate the queen during hive management or introduction to a new hive.

Bee escape board: A one-way escape board used during honey harvesting to clear bees out of honey supers.

Frame perch: An accessory that hooks onto the hive to hold frames while inspecting the hive.

 

Bee Packages or Nucleus Colony (Nuc)

Bee package: A box of bees, usually with a queen, that you purchase to start a hive.  A package does not come with any frames. 

Nucleus colony (nuc): A small, established colony of bees with a queen, brood, and honey. It’s a great way to start beekeeping with a functioning mini-hive.

 

Record-Keeping Tools

Notebook or app: Keep a detailed log of your hive inspections, honey production, treatments, and overall hive health. Apps like BeePlus and HiveTracks can help you organize this information digitally.

Part 2 - Overview of The Keeper's Hive

Anatomy of The Keeper's Hive

The One Queen Keeper and Two Queen Keeper are very similar in terms of their structure – the Two Queen Keeper is effectively two One Queen Keepers back to back. Below are some images of the inside of each hive to give you a better idea of how they work!

One Queen Keeper Breakdown

The One Queen Keeper is a single brood chamber hive that has an 8 frame deep brood chamber contained within a standard 10 frame deep box, making it compatible with any 10 frame bottom boards designed for a standard Langstroth box. The brood chamber is partially covered on one side with a queen excluder (above which are the honey supers) and on the other side is a removable observation window and hinged roof through which brood chamber inspections are performed.

It uses standard 5 frame nuc boxes as honey supers, but as you will see we have labeled two of them the "Exchange box" and the Spacer box" - these terms are in reference to the Demaree method of swarm control, which we will describe in detail in the following section. 

Two Queen Keeper Breakdown

The Two Queen Keeper is also a single brood chamber hive, but it has two brood chambers, one for each queen. As with the One Queen Keeper, both brood chambers are also the internal dimensions of standard 8 frame deep boxes. Also similar to the One Queen Keeper, the Two Queen Keeper is compatible with standard 10 frame bottom boards – it just uses two of them side by side. The two brood chambers are separated by a central divider, as well as by a queen excluder that partially covers each side. This means that the queens have no way of crossing over or accessing each other, helping to prevent one colony from trying to kill the other.

Rather than using 5 frame nucs as supers, the Two Queen Keeper uses standard 10 frame boxes. The bees from each colony effectively "share" those boxes above the queen excluder as there is nothing to prevent them from interacting. The benefit of the Two Queen Keeper over the One Queen Keeper is its potential to make a very large honey crop since it has double the population of workers/foragers. The downside is that it uses larger boxes, so when you do need to do any box manipulation you will need to do some heavy lifting. Again, with both hives almost all of your management and inspections can be done without needing to lift thanks to the access to the brood chamber through the roof and observation window.

 

Basics Of Single Brood Chamber Management

Single brood chamber management is a beekeeping practice where the queen and her brood is maintained within only one brood box, as opposed to the traditional two or more. Both the One Queen Keeper and Two Queen Keeper are single brood chamber hives. This method can simplify hive management and reduce the weight of equipment, but it requires careful attention to detail to ensure the colony remains strong and productive. Below is a basic breakdown of the single brood chamber management, but note that we go more in depth into seasonal management in Part 4 of this guide.

 

Hive Configuration

Single brood box: In a single brood chamber system, the hive consists of one brood box at the bottom of the hive where the queen lays eggs, with supers above for honey storage. A queen excluder is used to separate the single brood box from the super boxes above. 

Brood box size: Typically, the brood box is a deep 8 or 10-frame Langstroth box or an equivalent size depending on your hive configuration (a single medium-depth brood box is not enough space).

Supers: Additional supers can be added as needed above the brood chamber for honey storage during the nectar flow to accommodate surplus honey.

 

Spring Management Basics 

Check colony strength: As the colony enters spring, ensure it has a strong population of bees and that the queen is actively laying eggs. 

Brood pattern: Check for a solid brood pattern and a good number of young bees.

Add supers: When the colony begins to build up, add honey supers to accommodate for the nectar flow and prevent overcrowding in the brood box.

Swarm prevention: Monitor for signs of swarming, such as queen cells or overcrowding. Manage by:

• Brood sharing: if the brood chamber is getting full but it is still too cold to risk a split or the Demaree (if temperatures drop there is a risk of "chilling" brood in small colonies), consider taking a frame or two of brood out of the hive and moving it into a weaker colony.
• Split the hive: If necessary, create a split to prevent swarming and boost hive numbers. Usually this means taking out the queen and a few frames of brood. The remaining colony will raise a new queen or you can add a queen cell or mated queen.
• Demaree: Essentially making a vertical split within a hive.  The queen and a frame or two of brood remain in the brood box and the remaining brood is moved above the queen excluder.

Feeding: Provide supplemental feeding if the nectar flow is not sufficient or if the colony’s stores are low coming out of winter. Use 1:1 sugar syrup for boosting brood production.

Disease and pest management: Inspect for pests like Varroa mites and diseases. Treat accordingly if issues are found.

 

Summer Management Basics

Hive inspections: Regularly inspect the brood box to ensure the queen is laying well and that the colony is healthy.

Space management: As the colony grows, ensure the brood box is not overcrowded. Add honey supers if needed.

Swarm prevention: Monitor for signs of swarming, such as queen cells or overcrowding. Manage the same as you would in the spring.

Honey harvesting: Harvest honey from supers when they are full. Frames of honey should be at least 75% capped to prevent the honey from having too high of a moisture content.

Pest management: Continue monitoring and managing pests and diseases. Regularly check for Varroa mites and other potential issues. We like to say that successful overwintering starts with summer mite management!

 

Fall Management Basics

Assess honey stores: Ensure the colony has sufficient honey stores for winter. Many beekeepers prefer to leave enough honey on the hive to get them through the winter, rather than harvesting all of it. If you do harvest a lot of the honey the colony produces, you will need to provide supplemental feed to ensure they don't starve int he winter.

Minimum stores: Aim for around 60 pounds of honey in cold and harsh climates, less in warmer regions (we overwinter with ~30 pounds in southeastern Pennsylvania).

Prepare for winter:

• Reduce the entrance: Install an entrance reducer and mouse guard to prevent robbing and to help the bees defend the hive.
• Insulation: Insulate the hive if necessary to protect against extreme cold. The most important place to put insulation is at the top of the hive under the outer cover. Wrapping the hive in insulation may give additional protection from the cold winters.

Final inspections: Check the hive one last time to ensure that:

• The colony has enough food.
• The queen is healthy.
• There are no signs of disease or pests.

 

Winter Management Basics

Minimal disturbance: Avoid opening the hive during winter. Monitor from the outside or through the observation window for signs of activity, such as cleansing flights.

Temperature monitoring: Ensure the hive is adequately insulated and protected from extreme cold.

Moisture control: You have the option to implement moisture control measures like moisture boards or absorbent materials to prevent condensation.

Emergency feeding: Provide emergency food such as fondant or dry sugar if needed, but avoid liquid syrup as it can add moisture to the hive.

 

Swarm Prevention With The Demaree Method

Understanding Swarming

Healthy colonies are likely to swarm. It's the bees' natural way of reproducing and creating new colonies. Swarming typically occurs just before the peak honey flow, ideally giving both the old and new colonies enough time to gather enough nectar for winter survival. In our region (southeastern PA) swarm season kicks off in April and wraps up by the end of May.

 

Why Prevent Swarming?

You might wonder why we aim to prevent swarming if it's a natural process. There are a few key reasons why it is generally beneficial to beekeepers to prevent swarming: 

1. Swarms seek new homes, and sometimes that means a house's roof instead of a tree in the forest. Public sentiment towards honey bees can quickly shift when they're in a house or in a public space like a playground. Removing them can cost homeowners hundreds or even thousands of dollars, and if a neighbor or their child gets stung as a result of your hives swarming you can find yourself in a serious conflict.
2. Swarms in natural settings (i.e. not managed by beekeepers) have a survival rate of just around 15%, meaning that most of the colonies that swarm in the spring end up dying. In addition, the bees left behind are more vulnerable to pests and are not always successful at starting over.
3. When the a large portion of a the colony leaves during the nectar flow, you are essentially losing your foraging population right at the time when they have the most potential to make honey. By preventing swarming, you stand to significantly increase your honey crop.

 

How The Keeper's Hive Design Works With The Demaree

Before we delve deeper into swarm prevention and the Demaree, let's review the terminology we use to describe the boxes on the One Queen Keeper:

• Brood Chamber: This is the 8-frame bottom box above the bottom board.

• Spacer Box: The 5-frame medium nuc right above the queen excluder.

• Exchange Box: A 5-frame deep nuc positioned above the spacer box (or at the top of the hive if preferred).

• Honey Supers: These can be deep or medium nuc boxes and sit above or below the exchange box.

The same terminology applies to the configuration of the Two Queen Keeper:

• Brood Chambers: These are the two 8-frame bottom boxes above the bottom boards.

• Spacer Box: The 10-frame deep box right above the queen excluder.

• Exchange Box: A 10-frame deep box positioned above the spacer box (or at the top of the hive if preferred).

• Honey Supers: These can be deep or medium 10 frame boxes and sit above or below the exchange box.

What Is Demaree Method Of Swarm Control?

The Demaree method essentially splits the brood nest into two separate boxes (the brood chamber and the exchange box), making the colony believe it's small and has enough room to grow which reduces the urge to swarm. It differs from a traditional split in that it keeps all the bees within the same hive. Note that the Demaree works pretty much exactly the same on the Two Queen as it does on the One Queen, you just perform it on both colonies at the same time. Here's how to do it:

• When the brood chamber is bustling with bees and 6+ frames are brimming with brood, it's time for the Demaree. Remove 4-5 frames of brood from the brood chamber and place them in the exchange box. Replace the frames you removed with foundation or frames with drawn comb. Be sure to leave the queen and 1 to 2 frames of emerging capped brood in the center of the brood chamber, with the blank frames on either side of them and with food frames on the outside (frame position 1 and 8).

• A week after performing the Demaree, check the frames in the exchange box for emergency queen cells as the bees may think they're queenless (this is especially important if you place the exchange box at the top of the hive as they are farther from the queen pheromone). If you find any, first confirm the presence of a queen in the brood chamber. Then, either remove the queen cell with your hive tool or use the frame to start a new colony in a nuc box (the choice depends on whether you want more hives).

• You may need to repeat the Demaree several weeks later or when the brood chamber fills up again. Timing the Demaree ultimately depends on when the peak nectar flow begins in your area, and the number of times you perform it depends on how long the flow lasts.

 

Why Not Everyone Does It

You might wonder why more beekeepers don't use the Demaree method if it is so effective for preventing swarming. Well, for beekeepers using traditional Langstroth hives, performing the Demaree requires a lot of extra heavy lifting, extra disturbance of the bees, and an increased layer of complexity. After you perform it once or twice using The Keeper's Hive, it'll start to become second nature.

 

Common Demaree Pitfalls to Avoid

Avoid these common mistakes when using the Demaree method:

• Moving the queen to the exchange box accidentally. To prevent this, shake or brush the bees off the frame into the brood box before moving it up if you are unable to visually locate and isolate the queen.

• Performing the Demaree too early in the season, risking chilled brood. Placing the exchange box directly above the and the spacer box can help prevent this.

• Placing a food frame in the middle of the brood chamber. Always leave food frames in positions 1 and 8 (the outsides of the brood box), so that you don't disrupt the brood nest.

• Failing to check the frames in the exchange box a week or so after the Demaree or missing an emergency queen cell. This can result in two queens in your One Queen Keeper.

 

Part 3: Hive Inspection Basics

There are four things you should be evaluating every time you inspect a hive: bees, brood, food, and disease. In the sections below we provide an explanation of how to think about each of these categories to get the most out of your inspections and help you achieve success.

 

Evaluating Bee Population

Objective: Determine the strength and health of the colony.

Signs of a Strong Population:

• Bee Coverage: The hive should have a good number of bees covering the frames. In a strong colony, you should see bees covering about 8-10 frames in a 10-frame box.

• Activity at the Entrance: A strong colony will show consistent foraging activity at the hive entrance, with bees coming and going throughout the day.

• Frames of Bees: Look for frames with dense clusters of bees. A healthy population will show bees packed tightly on frames, especially in the brood area.

Signs of a Weak Population:

• Sparse Coverage: If only a few frames have bees or the hive looks empty, the colony might be struggling.

• Low Entrance Activity: Minimal foraging activity can indicate problems with the colony’s health or population.

• Dead Bees: A significant number of dead bees on the bottom board or on the ground in front of the hive can signal issues like disease or poor hive conditions.

Evaluating Brood

Objective: Assess the health and productivity of the queen and the development of new bees.

Types of Brood:

• Eggs: Tiny, white, grain of rice shape, usually seen in the center of the cell.

• Larvae: C-shaped, creamy-colored larvae in cells, which are developing from eggs.

• Pupae: The sealed brood, where the larvae have formed a cocoon and are developing into adult bees.

Signs of Healthy Brood:

• Brood Pattern: Look for a solid, uniform brood pattern with minimal gaps. A strong, productive queen will lay eggs in a tight, consistent pattern.

• Age of Brood: The presence of all stages of brood (eggs, larvae, pupae) indicates a healthy and active queen.

• Brood Location: Healthy brood should be located centrally within the brood box, with pollen and honey around the edges.

Signs of Problems:

• Spotty Brood Pattern: Gaps or irregular patterns in the brood can indicate issues with the queen’s fertility or disease.

• Capped Brood: Look for sealed brood cells. If they are punctured or have an unusual appearance, it might signal problems.

• Lack of Brood: If there is little to no brood, the colony might have a failing queen or other issues affecting reproduction.

Evaluating Food Stores

Objective: Ensure the colony has enough food (honey and pollen) to sustain itself.

Nectar/Honey Stores:

• Honey Frames: Check the frames for honey stores. Frames should have nectar stored in a band around the brood nest.

• Frame Weight: Lift frames to gauge their weight. Heavier frames indicate more honey stored.

Pollen Stores:

• Pollen Frames: Pollen should be visible in cells, often stored in bands around the brood nest.

• Pollen Color: Pollen can vary in color. Ensure there is a variety of pollen to provide a balanced diet for the brood.

Signs of Insufficient Food Stores:

• Low Frame Weight: Frames that feel light may indicate insufficient honey stores.

• Empty Comb: If frames that should have honey are empty, the colony might be at risk of starvation, especially during winter or early spring.

• Pollen Depletion: Lack of pollen can affect brood development and overall hive health.

Evaluating Disease

Objective: Identify any signs of disease or pest problems that could affect the colony.

Common Bee Diseases:

• American Foulbrood (AFB):

• Signs: Dark, sunken, and deformed brood with a foul odor. Capped brood cells may have a sunken appearance and a dark, ropy substance.

• Action: If AFB is suspected, immediately contact local beekeeping experts or authorities. AFB is highly infectious and requires prompt action.

• European Foulbrood (EFB):

• Signs: Brood in various stages of development, often with a more patchy and less regular pattern than AFB. Larvae are often discolored (yellow/brown) and are and twisted on its side. Cells may be capped, but the brood is often not as foul-smelling.

• Action: EFB can often be managed with improved hive management, antibiotics and may not require the same drastic measures as AFB.

• Varroa Mites:

• Signs: mites may be visible on the bees or brood, elevated mite levels on an alcohol wash or sugar roll, presence of associated bee viruses such as deformed wing virus

• Action: Use appropriate Varroa treatments such as miticides or integrated pest management strategies.

• Nosema:

• Signs: Dysentery, abnormal bee feces around the hive, and reduced hive activity.

• Action: Ensure good hive ventilation and consider treatments if Nosema is confirmed.

• Chalkbrood:

• Signs: White, chalky mummies of larvae in brood cells.

• Action: Improve hive ventilation and avoid over-crowding.

Pests to Watch For:

• Small Hive Beetles: Located on the margins of the hive, outer frames and under inner cover.  Larvae are small creamy white and signify an advanced infestation.  They can cause significant damage to combs and honey stores.

• Wax Moths: Check for webbing and damaged combs, especially in unused or weak colonies.

Part 4: Seasonal Beekeeping Management Overview

Spring Management

Spring is a critical season for beekeepers, as colonies are emerging from winter and beekeepers must ensure that the bees are healthy, strong, and prepared for the upcoming nectar flow. Below is a detailed breakdown of the steps involved in managing a beehive in the spring:

 

Initial Inspection (Late Winter/Early Spring)

• Timing: Begin inspections when temperatures are consistently above 50°F (10°C), typically late March to early April, depending on your location.

• Purpose: Assess the hive’s condition after winter to check for queen activity, food stores, and any signs of disease or weakness.

• Procedure:

  • Evaluate signs of the queen laying (eggs, larvae, and brood).

  • Evaluate the colony size (a small cluster may indicate a struggling hive).

  • Evaluate remaining honey stores.

  • Feeding: If stores are low, provide supplemental feeding with sugar syrup (1:1 water to sugar ratio) or solid sugar (fondant, candy or sugar bricks) to prevent starvation until natural nectar is available.

 

Ongoing: Assess the Queen and Brood Pattern

• Queen activity: Look for eggs, larvae, and a solid brood pattern, which indicates a healthy, productive queen. If you don’t see eggs or larvae, the queen may be failing or absent.

• Requeening: If the queen is not laying or the brood pattern is spotty, consider requeening early in the spring to allow time for a new queen to establish before the nectar flow.

• Signs of swarming: Spring is prime swarming season. If you see queen cells or lots of drone cells, the hive may be preparing to swarm.

Monitor and Feed as Needed

• Supplemental feeding: Bees may not have enough food from natural nectar sources early in spring. Continue feeding sugar syrup (1:1 ratio) to stimulate brood rearing until the natural nectar flow begins.

• Pollen substitutes: If there is a shortage of pollen, provide a pollen substitute or patty to boost brood production and help with protein intake for the growing population.

Expand the Hive as the Colony Grows

• Supers for honey storage: As the nectar flow starts, typically in late spring, add honey supers to give the bees room to store honey. Start adding supers before the hive becomes overcrowded.

Swarm Prevention

Swarming is the natural process where the old queen leaves the hive with about half of the bees to establish a new colony. This typically happens in spring when the hive becomes too crowded. Preventing swarms is essential to maintaining honey production and preventing your bees from becoming a nuisance to your neighbors. 

• Signs of swarming:

• Queen cells or swarm cells: These are elongated cells, often found at the bottom of frames, where new queens are raised.

• Overcrowded hive: Bees may start to hang outside the hive, indicating congestion.

• Back filling the brood chamber with nectar: the queen no longer has room to lay eggs

• Swarm prevention techniques:

• Removing swarm cells: If you find open swarm cells, you can remove them, but be cautious as it could disrupt the colony's natural process.  If all the queen cells are capped, there is a good chance that the original queen has already left.  If you remove all the queen cells and the queen has left, your colony is now hopelessly queenless, not good at all! 

• Splitting the hive: If the colony is growing rapidly, consider splitting it into two smaller colonies by moving the queen and  frames with bees and brood into a new hive.

• Provide space: Add supers or additional boxes to prevent overcrowding and back filling of the brood nest with nectar.

• Equalizing colonies: Take brood frames from strong colonies and give them to weaker colonies to balance the population and prevent swarming in stronger hives.

• Demaree Swarm Control Method: perform a vertical split within your hive as described above in the Demaree section.

Pest and Disease Management

Spring is the time to monitor and manage common bee pests and diseases before they become overwhelming during the busy nectar flow.

• Varroa mite monitoring: Varroa mites are one of the most serious threats to honeybee colonies. Perform mite checks using:

• Sugar shake or alcohol wash: To estimate the mite load.

• Sticky boards: Place under a screened bottom board to capture falling mites.

• Treatment: If mite levels are high, consider treating the hive with organic acids (oxalic or formic acid) or other approved miticides before the honey supers go on.

• Other diseases:

• American foulbrood and European foulbrood: Look for discolored or irregular brood patterns, which may indicate bacterial infections. If suspected, isolate the hive and seek treatment options.

• Nosema: A fungal disease that affects the bees’ digestive systems. Consider using Fumagillin or other treatments if you notice symptoms like dysentery.

Replace Old Comb

• Old, dark comb: Over time, the wax comb becomes dark and can harbor diseases and pesticides. Spring is a good time to remove and replace old frames.

• Comb rotation: Aim to replace about 20-25% of the comb in the hive each year to keep the hive healthy.

Prepare for the Nectar Flow

• Adding supers: As spring progresses and flowers begin to bloom, the nectar flow will start. Ensure you add enough supers to give the bees plenty of space for honey storage. Bees can fill up honey supers quickly during a heavy nectar flow.

Monitor Hive Strength

• Colony growth: A strong spring colony will have a growing population with plenty of foragers, a good amount of brood, and ample space for expansion.

• Weak colonies: If a colony is weak or struggling, consider boosting it with a frame or two of capped brood from a strong colony or requeening the colony with a younger queen.  

Supering for Honey Production

• When to add supers: Add honey supers before the bees run out of room. If bees start filling the brood chamber with honey, they’ll have less room for the queen to lay eggs, which can lead to swarming.

• Checking honey stores: As the bees fill the supers, inspect regularly to ensure they have enough room. Once a super is about 70-80% full, add another one on top.

Spring Maintenance

• Hive repairs: Take this opportunity to inspect and repair hive parts. Replace broken frames or boxes and make sure the hive is in good condition before summer.

• Ventilation: As the weather warms up, ensure the hive has good airflow by adjusting entrances or using screened bottom boards to prevent overheating.

Tracking and Record-Keeping

• Hive logs: Keep detailed notes on the status of each hive, including population, queen health, brood patterns, food stores, and any treatments or interventions.

• Nectar flow timing: Monitor local nectar sources and track the start of the nectar flow so you can manage your hives accordingly.

Summer Management

The start of summer coincides with the peak of the nectar flow and honey production. It’s also when colonies are at their largest and need careful monitoring to ensure they remain healthy, strong, and productive. Here's a detailed breakdown of summer colony management:

Regular Inspections

• Frequency: Conduct inspections every 1-2 weeks during the summer to monitor colony health, space, and honey production.

• Focus Areas:

• Brood pattern: Ensure the queen is still laying well. Look for a strong, consistent brood pattern with plenty of eggs, larvae, and capped brood.

• Honey stores: Check that the bees are filling supers with honey. Inspect both brood chambers and honey supers to ensure there's enough space for honey and the queen to continue laying.

• Pest and disease control: Regularly check for signs of varroa mites, American foulbrood, European foulbrood, and chalkbrood.

Monitoring and Preventing Swarming

• Swarming risk: Although swarming is more common in spring, colonies can still swarm in early summer if they become overcrowded or stressed.

• Swarm signs:

• Presence of queen cells.

• Bees gathering at the entrance or "bearding" (clustering outside the hive).

• Prevention:

• Providing space: Ensure there’s adequate space for the queen to lay eggs and for bees to store honey. Add supers as necessary.

• Splitting: If the colony is very large or showing signs of preparing to swarm, consider splitting the hive.

• Removing swarm cells: If you find open swarm cells, you can remove them, but be cautious as it could disrupt the colony's natural process.  If all the queen cells are capped, there is a good chance that the original queen has already left.  If you remove all the queen cells and the queen has left, your colony is now hopelessly queenless, not good at all! 

• Demaree Swarm Control Method: in the early summer you have the option to perform another Demaree on strong hives at risk of swarming. 

Supering for Honey Production

• Adding supers: During the nectar flow, ensure your bees have enough room to store honey by adding honey supers as soon as the ones in use are 70-80% full. Bees will cap the honey once it’s sufficiently dehydrated, signaling it’s ready for harvest.

• Avoiding overcrowding: Overcrowded hives can lead to stress, reduced honey production, and increased swarming. Provide plenty of space by continuing to add supers and removing fully capped frames.

Harvesting Honey

• Timing: The best time to harvest honey is during or after the main nectar flow. Honey should only be harvested from frames that are at least 75% capped, as uncapped honey still contains too much moisture and can ferment.

• Equipment: Use an uncapping knife and honey extractor to remove and process the honey. Filter it before bottling to remove any remaining wax or debris.

• Leaving enough stores: Make sure to leave enough honey for the bees to continue feeding on during dearth periods (times when little to no nectar is available). In most areas, bees will need 40-60 pounds of honey to get through the summer dearth and winter. 

Feeding During Nectar Dearth

• Nectar dearth: By late summer, especially in July or August, nectar sources may become scarce, leading to a dearth. Bees may become aggressive or start robbing weaker hives during this time.

• Feeding: If you notice a nectar dearth and your hives are light, begin supplemental feeding with sugar syrup (1:1 ratio of sugar to water). However, do not feed sugar syrup if you're still collecting honey for human consumption to avoid contamination.  Best time to feed is later in the day when robbing pressure is not as strong.  Be careful not to spill sugar syrup around the hive. 

• Robbing prevention: Reduce hive entrances and consider using robbing screens to prevent bees from stealing honey from weaker colonies during dearth periods.

Managing Hive Strength

• Population balance: During the height of summer, colonies can grow very large, requiring more food and space. Monitor brood and population size to ensure the colony doesn’t become too large or too small.

• Weak colonies: If a colony is weak, consider combining it with another hive or supplementing with brood frames from stronger hives to boost its population.

• Equalizing colonies: If one colony is much stronger than another, you can equalize them by moving brood or honey frames from the stronger to the weaker hive.

Pest and Disease Management

• Varroa mite control: Summer is a critical time for varroa mite management, as untreated mite infestations can weaken the colony, making it more likely to die in fall and winter.

• Monitoring mites: Perform regular mite checks using alcohol washes, sugar shakes, or sticky boards to track the infestation level.

• Treatment: If mite levels are above threshold (typically 2-3% of the total bee population), consider treating with miticides or organic acids like oxalic or formic acid.

• Other pests: Look for signs of small hive beetles, wax moths, and ants, which can all become problems during summer.

• Diseases: Continue monitoring for signs of brood diseases like American foulbrood, European foulbrood, and chalkbrood. Remove and dispose of infected frames if necessary.

Ventilation and Temperature Management

• Heat management: Summer temperatures can cause hives to overheat, leading to reduced productivity or hive absconding (when the entire colony leaves). Ensure your hive has adequate ventilation by:

• Propping the outer cover: Use a small stick or shim to prop the outer cover slightly, allowing more airflow. You can also shift supers to create cracks in between them for additional ventilation.

• Screened bottom boards: Use screened bottom boards to improve ventilation and reduce mite levels.

• Water source: Ensure there’s a nearby water source for the bees to cool the hive and keep hydrated. Bees use water to evaporate and cool the hive, especially during hot weather.

Queen Management

• Queen health: If the queen is failing (spotty brood pattern or reduced egg laying), you may need to requeen the hive. Early summer is a good time to introduce a new queen if necessary, as there’s still plenty of time for the colony to recover and build up for winter.

• Requeening: When requeening, ensure you carefully follow introduction procedures (using a queen cage with a candy plug) to increase acceptance rates.

Comb Management

• Rotating out old comb: Over time, wax comb becomes darker and more brittle, potentially harboring diseases or pesticide residues. Summer is a good time to rotate out older frames (typically those 3-5 years old) and replace them with fresh foundation or drawn comb.

• Wax moth management: Wax moths can infest weak colonies and stored comb. Monitor colonies and stored frames for signs of infestation (webbing, tunnels in the comb). Store unused frames in a freezer or well-ventilated area to prevent moth damage.

Supering for Honey Storage

• As the summer progresses, continue to monitor and add supers if needed to prevent the hive from becoming honey-bound. This also ensures the queen has enough room to continue laying, keeping the colony productive.

Late Summer Preparation for Fall

• Assess hive strength: As summer wanes, begin preparing the hive for fall by assessing the colony’s overall strength and honey stores.

• Final honey harvest: In late summer, after the main nectar flow ends, you can perform the final honey harvest of the season. Make sure to leave enough honey for the bees to sustain themselves through fall and winter.

• Reevaluate mite levels: Perform another mite check in late summer to ensure the colony goes into fall with low mite levels. Late summer mite loads are critical, as high varroa levels will result in sick winter bees that are made in September and October. 

Fall Management

Fall colony management is vital for preparing your bees to survive winter. The colony’s health, population, and stores at the end of fall will significantly impact its chances of surviving until spring. Here's a detailed breakdown of what you should focus on during the fall months:

Assess Colony Strength and Health

• Population check: A strong colony heading into fall should have a good population of bees, particularly a large number of young bees. These younger bees (called “winter bees”) will live through the winter and keep the colony alive.

• Action: Weak colonies with low populations are less likely to survive winter. Consider combining weak colonies with stronger ones before the cold weather sets in.

• Queen health: Ensure the queen is still laying eggs, although her egg-laying will slow down as the days shorten. A good queen will continue to lay into fall, ensuring the colony has enough young bees.

• Action: If the queen is failing (poor brood pattern or a lack of eggs), consider requeening the hive early in the fall to give the colony time to adjust and raise winter bees.

• Brood pattern: A healthy colony should still have a consistent brood pattern in early fall, though the amount of brood will decrease.

Monitor and Treat for Varroa Mites

• Importance of mite control: Varroa mites are the single biggest threat to colony health heading into winter. If mite levels are too high, the colony will weaken, making it more vulnerable to diseases and winter death.

• Mite checks: Perform mite checks in early fall using methods like alcohol washes or sugar shakes.

• Threshold: If mite levels exceed 2-3%, it’s critical to treat immediately to reduce the population.

• Treatment options: Depending on the mite load, you can choose from various treatments, including:

• Chemical treatments: Products like Apivar (amitraz) or Apiguard (thymol) are effective but must be used according to instructions to avoid contaminating honey.

• Acid treatments: Options like oxalic acid or formic acid are effective and leave little residue. Formic acid can be used when honey supers are still on the hive.

Evaluate and Increase Honey Stores

• Honey requirements: Bees need a substantial amount of stored honey to survive the winter. A general rule of thumb is to ensure that the colony has 40-60 pounds of honey going into winter.

• In colder climates, more honey may be needed, whereas in warmer climates, they may need less.

• Check honey stores: Inspect the hive to estimate how much honey is stored. The top brood box (if overwintering in multiple boxes) should be full of honey, and the lower box should have some honey, pollen, and brood.

• Action: If the colony lacks sufficient stores, begin feeding syrup (2:1 ratio of sugar to water) to build up the honey reserves.

• Remove honey supers: If you’re finished harvesting honey for the season, remove the honey supers and store them to avoid pest infestations (such as wax moths).

Feeding

• Syrup feeding: Start feeding 2:1 sugar syrup (sugar) in early fall to encourage the bees to build up their honey stores. Thicker syrup is preferable in fall since it allows bees to dehydrate it more quickly.

• Timing: Begin feeding as soon as you see they need additional stores and continue until they have enough honey for winter.

• Pollen patties: Consider feeding pollen patties if the colony lacks sufficient pollen stores, which are critical for brood rearing in late fall and early winter.

Combining Weak Colonies

• Why combine: Weak colonies are unlikely to survive winter on their own. Combining them with stronger colonies gives them a better chance of survival.

• How to combine: Use the newspaper method to combine colonies:

• Place a sheet of newspaper between the two brood boxes of the weak colony and the strong colony.

• The bees will gradually chew through the newspaper, merging the two colonies without fighting.

• Timing: Do this early in the fall to give the combined colony time to adjust and build up winter stores.

Pest and Disease Management

• Nosema: Nosema is a gut parasite that can weaken colonies, particularly in the fall and winter. Consider treating with fumagillin or other Nosema treatments if you suspect infection (e.g., bees with diarrhea or signs of poor gut health).

• Small hive beetles and wax moths: These pests can infest weaker colonies in fall. Regularly inspect for beetles or moths, and keep colonies strong to reduce the risk of infestation.

Hive Configuration for Winter

• Hive configuration: For detailed information on how to configure the One Queen Keeper or Two Queen Keeper for winter, refer to this guide.

• Remove empty or unnecessary supers: Remove honey supers that are not fully filled, as excess space makes it harder for bees to regulate temperature during the cold months.

• Entrance reducers: Install entrance reducers to limit the hive entrance to about a 3/8-inch opening. This will help the bees defend the hive from robbing bees, wasps, and other pests.

• Mouse guards: Install mouse guards or screens at the hive entrance to prevent mice from entering the hive and chewing on comb during the winter.
  
  

Robbing Prevention

• Signs of robbing: Robbing often occurs in late fall when nectar sources are scarce. Bees from one colony may attack a weaker colony to steal honey.

• Prevention: Reduce entrances to make it easier for bees to defend the hive. Use a robbing screen if necessary.

• Feed carefully: Avoid open feeding or spilling syrup, as this can trigger robbing behavior.

Queen Excluder Removal

• Why remove: If you're overwintering your bees in a hive configuration with a queen excluder, it's important to remove the excluder in fall. Otherwise, the queen may become trapped in the lower box as the bees move upward to access honey, leaving her isolated and possibly leading to her death.

 

Winter Preparation

• Insulation: Depending on your climate, you may need to add insulation to your hive. Insulation boards, wraps, or other materials can help prevent excessive heat loss in colder climates.

• Moisture control: Cold isn’t as dangerous to bees as moisture. Use moisture control boards, absorbent materials like burlap, or vented covers to manage moisture buildup.

• Windbreaks: If your apiary is in an open area, consider creating windbreaks to protect the hives from cold winter winds. Simple options include placing bales of hay or constructing temporary fencing.

Late Fall Final Inspections

• Final check: As winter approaches, perform one last inspection to ensure the colony has:

• A healthy queen.

• Enough bees and young brood for overwintering.

• Adequate honey stores.

• Mite levels are under control.

• Recheck mite levels: Do one last mite count before winter. If mite levels are high, apply a final treatment (e.g., oxalic acid vaporization, which can be done even when there’s little to no brood).

Leave the Bees Alone for Winter

• Do not disturb: Once you’ve completed your fall preparations and the weather cools down, leave the bees undisturbed as much as possible. Constant opening of the hive can disrupt the temperature regulation and stress the colony.

 

Winter Management

During winter much of the real colony management is over, but it is the season where most colony losses occur. Winter management is less about hands-on activity and more about careful planning, monitoring, and ensuring your bees have everything they need to maintain the hive's internal environment. Here's a detailed breakdown of winter colony management:

 

Prepare the Colony in Late Fall

Winter preparation starts in the fall, so by the time the cold weather hits, the bees are already set up for success.

• Population size: Ensure the colony has a large enough population of winter bees (young, fat-bodied bees that live longer than summer bees) before winter arrives.

• Honey stores: The hive should have around 30-60 pounds of honey depending on your climate. These stores are crucial, as bees will rely on honey to generate heat and survive.

• Varroa mite treatment: Ensure you’ve treated for Varroa mites in late fall. Winter bees weakened by mites or diseases are unlikely to survive through the cold months.

Temperature Control

• Thermoregulation by the colony: Bees generate heat by clustering together and vibrating their flight muscles. The goal of winter management is to help them maintain this cluster and minimize any additional strain.
  Hive insulation:

• Insulate the hive with materials like foam board, tar paper, or hive wraps to reduce heat loss.

• Use insulated covers or foam board under the outer cover.  1.5 inch foam board insulation (R-10) is a minimum amount to use. 

• Wind protection:

• Place hives in a protected location, away from strong winds. If needed, build windbreaks using fencing, bales of hay, or other materials to shield the hive.

• Avoid direct exposure to the north wind by positioning the hive entrance south or east, which allows bees to exit on warmer days for cleansing flights.

 

Manage Moisture and Ventilation

• Importance of moisture control: Condensation inside the hive can drip onto the bees and freeze, leading to colony death. While bees can handle cold, wet and cold conditions are deadly.
  

• Insulation under the outer cover minimizes condensation at the top of the hive

• Use moisture control boards (e.g., quilt boxes filled with absorbent materials like wood shavings) to prevent condensation.

• You can also place absorbent materials like burlap or newspaper inside the hive cover to absorb excess moisture.

 

Minimize Disturbance

• Avoid opening the hive: Once winter hits, minimize hive inspections. Disturbing the bees breaks their cluster, making it difficult for them to maintain the necessary heat to survive. With The Keeper's Hive, you can take a look through the observation window to confirm that your bees are alive without needing to open up the hive!

• Check from the outside: Monitor the entrance to the hive by looking for signs of life, such as bees coming out for cleansing flights on warmer days. You can also place your ear to the hive to hear the bees buzzing.

 

Monitor Food Stores

• Honey consumption: Bees consume their honey stores slowly throughout winter but may run out of food if conditions are harsh or the colony is larger than anticipated. Below are some options for emergency feeding:

• Candy boards or fondant: If you think the bees are running low on food mid-winter, place candy boards or fondant on top of the frames. These are easy for bees to access and won’t add moisture to the hive like syrup would.

• Dry sugar method: Place dry granulated sugar (commonly called the Mountain Camp method) on top of newspaper near the bees, providing an emergency food source.

• Avoid liquid syrup feed in winter, as it can add moisture to the hive, leading to freezing conditions.

• Check honey weight:

• Lift the back of the hive slightly to assess its weight. If it feels light, the bees might be running low on honey and need emergency feeding.

 

Monitor Colony Activity

• Cleansing flights: On warmer winter days (around 50°F or higher), bees will leave the hive for cleansing flights to avoid defecating inside the hive. These are normal and healthy behaviors. Watch for these flights to ensure the colony is still alive.

• Dead bees: It’s normal to see dead bees outside the hive during winter. The colony may push out older, weaker bees to reduce the strain on resources.

• Check entrances: Regularly clear snow, ice, or dead bees from the hive entrance to ensure bees can come and go as needed on warm days.

 

Rodent and Pest Control

• Install mouse guards: Mice often seek out beehives for warmth and food in winter. Install mouse guards at the entrance to keep them out while still allowing bees to exit.

• Check for pests: While you shouldn’t disturb the hive too much, periodically check for signs of pests like mice or small hive beetles. Keep entrances small and well-guarded.

 

Late Winter Feeding and Monitoring

• Assess food reserves: By late winter (February to March), the bees’ honey stores may be depleted. It’s essential to monitor food supplies at this time since brood-rearing starts again and requires extra energy.
  Supplement feeding:

• Fondant or candy boards: Place supplemental food like fondant or a candy board if stores are low.

• Dry sugar: If fondant isn’t available, place dry sugar on newspaper atop the inner cover.

• Timing: Feeding is most critical during late winter, when the bees’ food stores may be running low, and they’re beginning to raise brood for the upcoming spring.

 

Spring Preparation

• Watch for brood rearing: As winter draws to an end (February-March), the queen will begin laying eggs again. You may see the cluster move closer to the upper frames as bees tend to new brood. This period requires significant energy, so ensure food is available.

• Begin gentle inspections: As the weather starts to warm up (late February-March), begin gentle inspections if the temperature is around 50°F or higher. Focus on checking food supplies and the presence of brood.

 

Emergency Measures

• If the colony dies: Unfortunately, some colonies may not survive winter, particularly if they were weak going into the season. Check for signs of starvation (bees with heads in the cells), moisture problems, disease, or a failed queen. Learn from what went wrong and apply those lessons to future colonies.